Water for day old chicks

WATER: Have a 1 gallon chick waterer for each 50 birds. DIP THE BEAK OF THE CHICK IN THE WATER BEFORE YOU TURN IT LOOSE. For the first 2 days add 3 tablespoons of table sugar to each quart of water for extra energy. For best results, have either Quik Chik, Broiler Booster, or an antibiotic in the water. Your birds will be thirsty when you get them. A taste of water right away helps them to find more water soon. Most baby bird loss is caused because the bird doesn't start to eat or drink. Never let your bird run out of water. There are many kinds this item you can choose your own or buy in the market.

Feeder for day old chick

This is an example of feeder, you can create your own or buy in the market. For farmers who have a large amount of chickens, it can be a difficult task to keep them fed all the time. Automatic chicken feeders can be purchased, but they are often costly. Fortunately, it is not very difficult to make your own feeder, and it is a much cheaper alternative. Take the plastic jar and cut a large hole in the bottom of it. Do not cut all the way to the edge, but instead leave about 1 inch of room around the bottom. Take one of the pie tins and flip it upside down. Cut a hole in it that is slightly smaller than the diameter of the jar. You want the jar to be able rest on it but not fall through it. Cut several more holes around the edge of the pie tin. They should be slightly larger than the size of a quarter. These will be where your chickens peck out the chicken feed. Take the other pie tin and leave it facing right-side up. Spread glue around the rim and stick the upside-down pie tin on top of it. You should now have a saucer shape made with the two pie tins. Glue the jar over the large hole you have cut in the pie tin. Allow to dry completely. You now have your chicken feeder. To fill it, unscrew the jar lid and pour the chicken feed inside. As the chickens eat the food, more will gradually pour out. FEED: Use a commercial chick booster for the first 8 weeks. On the first day cover the litter with newspaper and spread some feed on the papers and have your feeders full also. This will allow the new birds to find the feed. Use a 2 foot feeder for each 25 chicks. After the first day remove the papers from the starting area. Please refer to the order blank for feed protein levels for the type of poultry you are ordering.

20 days old chicks

My term 'Twenty Day Old Chicks' is slightly misleading because after twenty days the birds are no longer chicks, but nearly full grown chickens. As you see in the video, at 20 days the 'chicks' are now 1.5 to 2 kilos. That is 3 1/3 to almost 4 1/2 pounds. Considering they still have fifteen days to go they will be quite large chickens by then. We are raising thirty five day chickens. meaning they can be processed for food after 35 days. There are always a few slightly slower growing and they may be extended to 45 days. After a maximum of 45 days they will not grow more and are not practical to feed. The raising of the chickens was timed so they would be ready for Halloween. Halloween is a much more celebrated occasion here than in the USA. Myra new the Market was ripe and all the birds would be sold for the occasion. She has sold all of her chickens already. They are to be delivered or picked up on the November 1st, that is the celebrated day in the Philippines. Myra only saved me three. The next clutch of chicks will be purchased with Christmas in mind. We want fryers ready to sell for Christmas diner. There is always mixed emotion when preparing the chickens to sell. After feeding and tending the chickens for over a month there is always an amount of bonding that takes place. I felt dad for Myra when the last birds were all sold. She was out sitting next to the coop the next day and when I approached her she looked at me and said, " Hun Hun all my chicks gone. I have no chicks. I am too sad. " Myra likes raising fryers, but will not eat any of the chickens she had raised. She prepared chicken for me. When I asked her why she she wasn't eating she said, " I don't to eat my chicks I like fish more."

Setting the stage

Brooder: a safe place to keep chicks warm, watered, and fed. You can buy or build elaborate brooders, but many chick growers go with a large plastic tote or large cardboard box. Be certain to have the right size (with high walls) for the number of chicks. You can also start small and move to a larger brooder as the chicks get older. Finally, you'll want a (ventilated) lid to keep brave chicks from escaping once they get bigger. --Brooder location: You want to keep the brooder in a warm, dry place; many people set it up in a garage, others do it in their house, while yet others do it in the chicken coop (if there are no adult chickens in the coop). -- Heat lamp: Fairly essential to keeping the chicks warm and their temperature regulated, as they can't do so initially. You can use a regular lamp and lightbulb, but products made for this purpose (with a guard) are a bit safer and more consistent. Attaching heat lamp to a 2x4 across top of brooder works well as does attaching it to a floor lamp's pole. --Thermometer: While not absolutely crucial, a thermometer will help you more easily monitor the temperature in the brooder. -- Bedding: Pine shavings in general are the best materials, but in the first week or so, we like newspapers with a layer of paper towels on top (because the chicks will try eating the pine shavings). -- Waterer: Absolutely essential to have one or more waterers designed specifically for chicks; other systems will lead to sad results and death. -- Feeder: You don't necessarily have to get chick feeders (though it's recommended); some folks use the base of an egg carton. If you don't use a chick feeder, be more vigilant about keeping the feed clean (from poop) and dry. Some experts recommend simply placing the feed on a paper plate for the first few days. -- Chick starter feed: It's essential to use a feed specifically designed as starter for chicks; your main choice will be deciding between regular and medicated. Feed this feed for the first 8 weeks or so. -- Electrolyte powder: If your chicks are arriving by mail, purchase the electrolyte powder (think Gatorade for chicks) to supplement their water starting the third day or so and give the chicks extra strength in those key early days. (Old timers used to put sugar in the chick water.) -- Coop: Unless you're keeping the brooder in the coop, you don't technically need to have it ready now, but it's best -- as time will pass quickly. Every imaginable type of chicken coop exists -- and your goal should be to find/build the one that best fits your needs/code/number of chickens. -- Pen: The healthiest chickens are the ones who forage the yard for their food, thus you should have a plan for where you'll let your chickens roam, from one nicely fenced pen to a series of pens, to a moving pen, to your entire backyard. The pen should be fenced/enclosed to protect chickens from predators.

Location requirements

Location Requirements and Recommended Layout for Poultry Farms At least 1km away from the house. A poultry farm must be located outside urban areas. It must be located in 25 m radius from sources of ground and surface drinking water. Medium and large poultry farms must be at feast 1 km away from built-up areas (residential, commercial, institutional and industrial) while a small scale must be at least 500 m away from these areas.